Archive for the ‘TRADITIONAL SALES’ Category

Here is an excellent article about wood floors from REALTOR Magazine. I hope you’ll find it helpful:

“Just as with ties and hem lengths, wood flooring styles change. Colors get darker or lighter; planks get narrower or wider; woods with more or less grain show swings in popularity; softer or harder species gain or lose fans; and the wood itself may be older, newer, or even pre-engineered with a top layer or veneer-glued to a substrate to decrease expansion and contraction from moisture.

Here are key categories for consideration:

Solid Plank

This is what some refer to as “real” wood because the wood usually ranges from three-eighths to three-quarters of an inch in total thickness to permit refinishing and sanding. Thicker floors have a thicker wear layer to allow for more frequent refinishing and sanding, so they can withstand decades of use, says architect Julie Hacker of Stuart Cohen and Julie Hacker Architects. It also can be stained, come from different species of tree, and be sold in numerous widths and lengths:

  • Width and length: Designer Steven Gurowitz, owner of Interiors by Steven G., is among those who prefers solid flooring for many installations because of its rich, warm look. Like other design professionals, he’s seeing greater interest in boards wider than the once-standard 2 ¾ to 3 ¾ inches — typically 5 to 6 inches now but even beyond 10 inches. And he’s also seeing corresponding interest in longer lengths, depending on the species. Width and length should be in proportion. “The wider a board gets, the longer the planks need to be, too, and in proportion,” says Chris Sy, vice president with Carlisle Wide Plank Floors. These oversized dimensions reflect the same trend toward bigger stone and ceramic slabs. The downside is greater cost.
  • Palette: Gurowitz and others are also hearing more requests for darker hues among clients in the northeastern United States, while those in the South and West still gravitate toward lighter colors. But Sprigg Lynn, on the board of the National Wood Flooring Association and with Universal Floors, says the hottest trend is toward a gray or driftwood. Handscraped, antique boards that look aged and have texture, sometimes beveled edges, are also become more popular, even in modern interiors, though they may cost much more.
  • Species and price: Depending on the preference of the stain color, Gurowitz favors mostly mahogany, hickory, walnut, oak, and pine boards. Oak may be the industry’s bread and butter because of the ease of staining it and a relatively low price point. A basic 2 ¼-inch red oak might, for instance, run $6.50 a square foot while a 2 ¼-inch red oak that’s rift and quartered might sell for a slightly higher $8.50 a square foot.
  • Maintenance: How much care home owners want to invest in their floors should also factor in their decision. Pine is quite soft and will show more wear than a harder wood like mahogany or walnut, but it’s less expensive. In certain regions such as the South, pine comes in a harder version known as heart pine that’s popular, says Georgia-based designer Mary Lafevers of Inscape Design Studio. Home owners should understand the different choices because they affect how often they need to refinish the wood, which could be every four to five years, says Susan Brunstrum of Sweet Peas Design-Inspired Interior. Also, Sy says that solid planks can be installed over radiant heating, but they demand expert installation.

Engineered Wood

Also referred to as prefabricated wood, this genre has become popular because the top layer or veneer is glued to wood beneath to reduce expansion and contraction that happens with solid boards due to climatic effects, says Sy, whose firm sells both types. He recommends engineered, depending on the amount of humidity. If home owners go with a prefabricated floor, he advises a veneer of at least one-quarter inch. “If it’s too thin, you won’t have enough surface to sand,” he says. And he suggests a thick enough substrate for a stable underlayment that won’t move as moisture levels in a home shift.

His company’s offerings include an 11-ply marine-grade birch. The myth that engineered boards only come prestained is untrue. “They can be bought unfinished,” he says. Engineered boards are also a good choice for home owners planning to age in place, since there are fewer gaps between boards for a stable surface, says Aaron D. Murphy, an architect with ADM Architecture Inc. and a certified Aging in Place specialist with the National Association of Home Builders.

Reclaimed Wood

Typically defined as recycled wood — perhaps from an old barn or factory — reclaimed wood has gained fans because of its aged, imperfect patina and sustainability; you’re reusing something rather than cutting down more trees. Though less plentiful and more expensive because of the time required to locate and renew samples, it offers a solid surface underfoot since it’s from old-growth trees, says Lynn. Some companies have come to specialize in rescuing logs that have been underwater for decades, even a century. West Branch Heritage Timber,for instance, removes “forgotten” native pine and spruce from swamps, cuts them to desired widths and lengths, and lays them atop ½-inch birch to combine the best of engineered and reclaimed. “The advantage is that it can be resanded after wear since it’s thicker than most prefabricated floors, can be laid atop radiant mats, and doesn’t include toxins,” Managing Partner Tom Shafer says. A downside is a higher price of about $12 to $17 a square foot.

Porcelain “Wood”

A new competitor that closely resembles wood, Gurowitz saysporcelain wood offers advantages: indestructibility, varied colors, “graining” that mimics old wood, wide and long lengths, quickness in installation, and no maintenance. “You can spill red wine on it and nothing happens; if there’s a leak in an apartment above, it won’t be destroyed,” he says. Average prices run an affordable $3.50 to $8 a square foot. The biggest downside? It doesn’t feel like wood since it’s colder to the touch, Lynn says.


Bottom line: When home owners are making a choice or comparing floors, they should ask these questions:

1. Do you want engineered or solid-based floors, depending on your home’s conditions?

2. Do you want a floor with more natural character, or less?

3. What board width do you want?

4. How critical is length to you in reducing the overall number of seams?

5. What color range do you want — light, medium, or dark?

6. Do you want more aggressive graining like oak or a mellower grain like walnut?

7. Do you want flooring prefinished or unfinished?

8. How thick is the wear layer in the floor you’re considering, which will affect your ability to refinish it over time?

9. What type of finish are you going to use? Can it be refinished and, if so, how?

10. For wider planks that provide greater stability: Where is the wood coming from, how is it dried, what is its moisture content, and what type of substrate is used in the engineered platform?



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Certain dated design features in a home can really make some home buyers cringe.

Among the items making their list:

1. Popcorn ceilings: The speckled ceilings can attract dirt and be impossible to paint. Plus, if the home was built prior to 1980, the ceiling may contain asbestos and need to be tested by an inspector.

Fix it: Unfortunately, there’s no quick fix for removing popcorn ceilings; it can get messy. It’ll have to be scraped off and the ceiling then will need to be repaired. Plus, you’ll want to have it tested for asbestos before scraping. Home owners will likely want to consider hiring a professional to do this.


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Repair wood floors and scratches can make rooms look worn out. It is easy to put the luster back into the floors.

Camouflage scratches (more…)

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It doesn’t have to cost a fortune to improve a home and make it more sellable, according to HomeGain’s 2012 National Home Improvement Survey.


HomeGain surveyed nearly 500 real estate professionals nationwide to determine the top do-it-yourself home improvement projects that offer some of the biggest bang for your buck when selling a home. (more…)

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A healthy weed-free lawn is possible without the pesticides or harmful chemicals.

Here are a few reasons to cut out the chemicals: (more…)

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Springtime is the best time to give a home a fresh coat of paint, according to the Paint Quality Institute.

“By painting in moderate weather, you’ll likely get a longer-lasting paint job,” said Debbie Zimmer, paint and color expert for the Paint Quality Institute. Zimmer said that exterior painting is best to do when temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, but not when it gets too hot. “Very hot days can cause the paint to dry too quickly and impair good paint film formation,” she noted. (more…)

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An error in CLUE insurance report can increase homeowners insurance premium or even prevent from getting coverage at all.

What is C.L.U.E.?

C.L.U.E. (Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange) is a claims history database created by ChoicePoint that enables insurance companies to access consumer claims information when they are underwriting or rating an insurance policy.



How to dispute report information?

If you decide to contest information about a claim, your first step is to contact LexisNexis, the owner of CLUE. You can either call the phone number listed on your CLUE report or write to P.O. Box 105292, Atlanta Ga. 30348. (The general toll-free number is 800-456-6004.) You cannot submit a dispute statement online. A-PLUS, operator of another claims-history database, follows a similar dispute procedure.

You’ll need to provide the following information to dispute a claim:

  • The CLUE reference number, which appears near the top of the report;
  • The name of the insurance company;
  • The date of the loss;
  • A brief explanation of the facts as you see them.

Once LexisNexis gets your dispute statement, it will investigate the claim and contact your insurance company, if necessary. The investigation can take up to 30 days, according to a LexisNexis spokesperson. The insurance company then has time to respond, which can take several months.

If LexisNexis’ investigation supports your assertions, it will make changes in your CLUE file. Whether it agrees or not, the company will send you a letter explaining its findings within five days after the investigation is concluded. Many insurers offer a claim-free discount. Just 5% off means $40 in savings on an average annual premium of $804.


Setting the record straight

If you’re not satisfied with the results of the investigation, you can submit your side of the story. LexisNexis will add your statement to any future CLUE reports that include the disputed claim.

Even if the claims information in your CLUE report isn’t wrong, you may decide the report doesn’t tell the whole story. You can add comments to any entry in your CLUE report to explain the circumstances of a claim. For example, perhaps you made a claim for damage to your roof after a limb from your neighbor’s tree broke off in a storm. Since then the neighbor has cut down the tree and you’ve repaired the roof. You could attach a comment to the claim history indicating that this problem won’t reoccur.


Look out for these common errors

What should you look for in checking your CLUE report? Of course, look for any claims that you didn’t file. You can also review the specific information about each claim for accuracy, in particular:

  • Social Security numbers. An incorrect number could mean someone else’s claims history is in your report;
  • Policy numbers. Check them against your original policy or your most recent bill;
  • Dates of claim. Since claims only remain on the report for seven years, an incorrect date could mean that the claim is listed for too long;
  • Amounts of claim. Be sure that these amounts agree with any payments you received.

If you haven’t owned your home for seven years, you might also want to contact the previous owners to verify that any claims they filed are stated correctly in the report. If you got a copy of LexisNexis’ Home Seller’s Disclosure Report from the sellers when you purchased your home, you might also want to compare that report with the “Claims History for Risk” section of the current CLUE report. This part of the CLUE report lists recent claims related to your home, not just those you filed. One catch is that the Home Seller’s report, which shows the claims history of a property without divulging personal information about the sellers, only goes back five years.


For ANSWERS to Frequently Asked QUESTIONS About C.L.U.E.: http://oci.wi.gov/pub_list/pi-207.htm


SOURCE: LexisNexis, HouseLogic

Real Estate and Homes For Sale in Northern Virginia, Fairfax County VA, Loudoun County VA, Prince William County VA, Northern Virginia Realtors real estate agents, REALTOR Vivianne Rutkowski

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Underpricing a home is NOT a popular idea with most home sellers.

However, sometimes it is the only option available in this difficult market – especially if the homeowner carries TWO mortgages, one on the old home they are trying to sell and another mortgage on their new home.


While home sellers are not too happy about the idea of underpricing, housing experts in an article at CNNMoney say that underpricing a home by 10 percent may help it sell faster. And while sellers may lose out on thousands from the sale, they likely will avoid months of carrying costs from the home lingering on the market to offset that loss.


The high inventory of foreclosures on the market is making it difficult for sellers to compete against these ultra-low prices. Therefore, “listing your home for less than comparable ones in your neighborhood is the best way of unloading it as quickly as possible,” according to the article.


You could even attract a bidding war, says Steve Murray, editor of the Real Trends newsletter.

Furthermore, it may take the property a lot less time to sell. For example, a home underpriced by 10 percent may sell in a few days rather than in several months to one year.


For home owner who carries two mortgages, underpricing by 10% may be the winning strategy in the long run.



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Sellers have a better chance at getting their house sold by using a REALTOR® than opting for the do-it-yourself approach, according to a survey of 1,000 home owners by HomeGain.com, an online real estate resource. Nearly 60 percent of home owners who used a REALTOR® to sell their home were successful compared to 39 percent of FSBOs, the survey found.

In the survey, 83 percent of home owners said they used a REALTOR® to sell their home, whereas 17 percent said they tried to sell it themselves. This corresponds to results from NAR’s 2010 Profile of Buyers & Sellers, which found 88 percent of sellers were assisted by a real estate agent. (Additionally, 83 percent of buyers bought their home through an agent.)

“It is especially striking that home owners fare significantly better in selling their homes using a REALTOR®  than selling on their own,” says Louis Cammarosano, general manager at HomeGain. “Due to that relative success, the level of satisfaction in the home selling process is also higher for home sellers utilizing the services of a REALTOR® than those who try to sell their homes on their own.”

Among the findings in its For Sale by Owner vs. REALTOR® survey:

  • 88 percent of home owners who sold their homes using a REALTOR® said they would use a REALTOR® again.
  • 24 percent of FSBOs eventually contacted a REALTOR® to help sell their home.







SOURCE: REALTOR Magazine; HomeGain.com  “HomeGain Survey Finds Home Sellers Fare 50% Better in Getting Their Homes Sold Using a REALTOR® Than Selling on Their Own.

Keller Williams Realty in Arlington County VA, Fairfax County VA, Fauquier County VA, Loudoun County VA, Prince William County VA, Virginia, Realtor Vivianne Rutkowski



NOTE: Advertisement Ads which appear in most posts on this Blog are run by WordPress and do NOT necessarily represent the views of Vivianne Rutkowski or Keller Williams Realty. Visitors to this blog are NOT obligated to click the ads to visit this blog.

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Homeowners who want to sell but do not have a lot of cash to spruce up their properties might consider these tips from Bankrate.com for upgrading a property without spending a fortune.


  • Polish up the kitchen.
  • Add new cabinet door handles, replace lighting and update the faucet set.
  • Unless the cabinets are mica, give them a fresh coat of paint.
  • Order new doors for kitchen appliances.


  • Tidy up the bath. Replace the toilet seat.
  • Clean up the floor with vinyl tiles applied over the old floor.
  • Re-grout the tub and, if the tub is dingy, add a new prefabricated tub and shower surround.


  • Paint the walls.
  • Make all the windows sparkle and refresh the drapes
  • Add closet systems to all the bedrooms, pantry, and entry closets.
  • Hire a plumber and an electrician to fix anything that is loose or that leaks.
  • Clean the carpets or, if they are worn, cover them with area rugs – be sure to price your home accordingly or to offer a carpet bonus to the buyer.
  • Polish the floors
  • Replace ceiling lights with inexpensive but attractive fixtures.
  • Refinish or repaint the front door and replace the hardware.


  • Wash all the windows from outside
  • Wash the deck and the fence
  • Mow the lawn, edge the sidewalks, and mulch all the beds
  • Put two big planters at either side of the front door.

This is a minimum that can be accomplished inexpensively in a few weekends before putting a For Sale sign.

SOURCE: Bankrate.com; REALTOR Magazine

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A healthy, well-maintained lawn is a key to preserving the value of your home.

Why? Regular lawn maintenance enhances curb appeal, making your home—and neighborhood—attractive to passersby and potential buyers.

Neglecting lawn can mean risking devaluing your home. In fact, an unkempt lawn can be a warning sign to buyers of other potential home maintenance issues.

Studies have shown that most home buyers make a decision whether they like to purchase a house within 5-7 seconds of getting out of the car – often BEFORE they even open a car door. The outside of the home and the lawn is the first things buyers see when they come to preview a home. If the house lacks the outside appeal, many home buyers are not interested in seeing the inside of the home.


Know your grass type

It is important to choose the right type of grass. There are two main types of lawn grass: cool-season and warm-season.

Cool-season grasses do most of their growing in spring and fall, often going dormant in the summer. Cool-season grasses include  Fescue, Kentucky Bluegrass, and Perennial Ryegrass.            

Warm-season grasses thrive from late spring to early fall and go dormant in the winter. Varieties include Bermuda, St. Augustine, and Zoysiagrass.  

In Virginia, Transition Zone Grasses include: Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescue, Perennial Ryegrass, Zoysiagrass.



In general, the taller the grass, the deeper the roots, the fewer the weeds, and the more moisture the soil holds between watering. The recommended mower blade height is 3 inches.

In prime growing season (spring and fall for cool-season; summer for warm), homeowners should mow frequently enough so they’re removing no more than one-third of the grass blade. If possible, grass should not be mown while wet, as the practice can spread diseases that affect lawns.

Mower blades should be sharpened monthly to ensure clean, sharp cuts. A dull blade tears the grass, leaving jagged edges that discolor the lawn and invite pathogens. Consider purchasing 2-3 backup blades so that a sharp one is always on hand.



Deep and in-frequent watering is better for lawns than frequent sprinkles, which promote shallow root growth. In general, lawns need about one inch of water per week to maintain green color and active growth.

Lawns that receive less than one inch will likely go into dormancy. To stay alive, dormant lawns should still receive at least 1 inch of water per month.

To check the output of a sprinkler, scatter some pie tins around the yard to see how much water collects in a specific length of time. Having a rain gauge ($5 to $20) will help you keep track of how much water the lawn receives naturally.



There are two schools of thought on feeding the lawn:

  1. Some people like to fertilize lightly several times per year.
  2. Others think that once a year is sufficient and most effective. For cool-season grasses, that time is early fall, so the grass enters winter dormancy in a much healthier state. For warm-season grasses, the best time to fertilize is late spring, just as the grass begins its most active growth.

People interested in organic fertilizers have never had an easier time finding them at local garden centers. Homeowners who mow regularly with mulching mowers are encouraged to leave the clippings on the ground, where they’ll decompose and recycle nutrients into the soil.


Weed and Grub control
For minor weed invasions, removal by hand of the entire plant and roots is recommended. When the situation becomes impossible to contain by hand, it might be necessary to apply a herbicide.

For cool-season grasses, the best time to apply a weed killer is in fall, when both old and new weeds can be eliminated before winter. Warm-season grasses often benefit from a late-winter application of  herbicide to prevent weeds from growing in the spring.

Grub worms, the larval stage of June, Japanese, and other beetles, feed on the tender root systems of lawns. Affected lawns exhibit browning and wilting patches. If the grubs are present at a rate exceeding 10 per square foot, they should be treated with a chemical pesticide.



Small grass clippings should be left on the lawn as they are a great fertilizer. However, large piles that exit a side-discharge mower should be broken to smaller pieces. Fallen leaves, twigs, and debris should be raked up regularly. In climates where it snows, like Washington, D.C. area, it’s best to remove fall leaves before winter. A thick layer of wet leaves can smother a lawn if not immediately removed in early spring.

SUMMARY:  A healthy lawn looks good and it helps to preserve the value of your home. A healthy lawn is a must for homeowners who plan to  sell their home. A healthy lawn can be a deciding factor if a house sells quickly or lingers on the market.


SOURCE: Houselogic.com 


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Now is the time for home owners contemplating a spring sale to spruce up their properties in anticipation of a potentially vibrant home-selling season, especially after our snowy winter this year here in Northern Virginia.

 Here are 10 inexpensive ways to make a property more attractive to shoppers.

  1. Improve first impressions. Touch up the paint on the front door and other areas that buyers see first.
  2. Clean up the landscaping. Trim the hedges and trees and plant some annuals in the flowerbeds.
  3. Paint the interior. A coat of light yellow or cream with contrasting white woodwork looks fresh and clean.
  4. Refurbish the floors. Buff the hardwoods. Install new carpets – or at least get them professionally cleaned.
  5. Take care of the big problems. If the house needs a roof or the front stoop is crumbling, get them fixed.
  6. Buy warranties. Putting appliances under warranty gives homebuyers a secure feeling.
  7. Improve energy efficiency. New windows or improved insulation tell a potential buyer the seller is on top of things plus they come with tax benefits – federal tax credit available up to $1,500.
  8. Replace light fixtures. Updated fixtures, especially at the entrance way and in the foyer, create a good first impression.
  9. Buy a stove. Home owners whose kitchen isn’t top of the line can jazz it up for a few hundred dollars by buying a new stove, which gives the room a fresh feel.
  10. Tidy up the bathrooms. Get rid of mildew, replace caulking and replace stained sinks.

SOURCE: U.S. News & World Report, Luke Mullins

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For the second year in a row, REALTORS® report that exterior remodeling projects return the most money as a percentage of cost.

On a national level, wood deck additions and all types of siding replacements–upscale fiber cement, midrange vinyl, and upscale foam-backed vinyl–returned more than 80 percent of project costs upon resale. Of these, the most profitable project was upscale fiber cement siding, which recouped 86.7 percent of costs, followed by wood decks at 81.8 percent, midrange vinyl siding at 80.7 percent, and upscale foam-backed vinyl siding at 80.4 percent.

The 2008 Remodeling Cost vs. Value Report compares construction costs with resale values for 30 midrange and upscale remodeling projects comprising additions, remodels and replacements in 79 markets across the country, expanding from 60 markets last year.

Projects With Highest, Lowest Returns

In addition to wood decks and siding, window replacements and kitchen remodels also returned a relatively high percentage of remodeling costs on a national basis.

All types of window replacements–upscale and midrange wood and upscale and midscale vinyl–returned more than 76 percent of costs. A major midrange kitchen remodel returned 76 percent of project costs, while a minor midrange kitchen remodel returned 79.5 percent of costs.

On a national level, bathroom remodels, while still a relatively good investment, do not return as high a percentage as in previous years. A midrange bathroom remodel was estimated to return 74.4 percent on resale, comparable to a midrange attic-to-bedroom conversion, at 73.6 percent of costs recouped, and a midrange basement remodel, at 72.7 percent of costs recouped.

As in last year’s report, the least profitable remodeling projects in terms of resale value were home office remodels, sunroom additions, and back-up power generators, returning only 54.4 percent, 56.6 percent, and 57.1 percent, respectively, of project costs.

National Association of Realtors® President Charles McMillan says the resale value of any given remodeling project depends on a variety of factors.

“A home’s overall condition, availability and condition of surrounding properties, location, and regional economic climate are all factors that will influence the value of any remodeling project,” he says.

SOURCE: National Association of REALTORS®

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This Act protects property owners from localities that seek to alter past zoning decisions by enacting new zoning ordinances.
For example, if a structure was constructed in accordance with a local government building permit, and the locality issued a certificate of occupancy or use permit, a later zoning ordinance may not remove it for nonconformity with the new ordinance. It also applies to structures on which an owner has paid taxes to the locality for more than 15 years.

Of course, the question remains what happens if the “building permit” was forced on the HELPLESS citizens by a local, say, town, government to the detriment of the taxpayers? Clearly, the state of Virginia made sure, that the government always has the upper hand, no matter how unfair or unjust the decision.

Such was the case of the Mormon Church in Potomac Crossing in Leesburg, Virginia. There was literally NOTHING that the Home Owners could do against the Town government of Kristen Umstattd, Leesburg mayor, once the Town made the decision to rezone and sell a lot to the Mormon Church, a lot that was supposed to be used originally for the tennis courts and play grounds for children.

The Town of Leesburg very unwisely zoned a small lot in the middle of a residential area as COMMERCIAL by PREVIOUS Town Council (1988, no need existed for the commercial area, pure politics), and when opposed by the Home Owners, The Town rezoned the lot and gingerly sold it to the Mormon Church in 2002 without communicating the sale to the Home Owners. The Town contacted the adjacent 92 properties – minimum required by the law. Over 800 HO were never contacted by The Town or the HOA.

To make it worse, many new Home Buyers were issued HOA documents that did not have the church marked on the map, even though an elementary school nearby was marked, long after the rezoning and sale of the lot. The sold lot was “vacant” for many years and many new buyers were told it was a common area. Indeed, many original Home Owners believed the lot was “common area” until one beautiful day in March 2008 they noticed bulldozers  working on the lot.

My point is that The Vested Rights Reform looks good on the surface and it appears to be Property Owner friendly, but in reality, like anything else in life, it can be misused and even abused by government(s) and special interest groups.

SOURCE: Virginia Association of REALTORS

NOTE: The interpretation of this legislature and comment is my personal, and is not a reflection on Keller Williams Realty or Virginia Association of REALTORS

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The most fundamental right of every Home Buyer is the right to purchase a home that is best suited to their needs and lifestyle, and where they know their Family will be happy.  After all, they are purchasing NOT just a house, they are purchasing a HOME.  This is the minimum of protection that should be guaranteed by the CONSTITUTION.  It goes into the heart of individual rights and property rights.

Virginia Property Owners’ Association Act requires Home Seller to disclose if their house is located within a development that is subject to the Virginia Property Owner’s Association Act. The POA Act requires the Seller of the property within such a development to obtain an Association Disclosure packet from the property owners’ association and provide it to the Purchaser.  The information in the Association Disclosure Packet should be current as of  a date-specified on the Association Disclosure Packet.

This is very important to understand because all the information and all the data may be correct in the Packet leading up to the date on the Packet, but very misleading if changes in community bylaws were made after that date or if any other information changed (ex. there is a lawsuit against the HOA).  This is why it is wise and important to ALWAYS request an UPDATE to the Packet. The Seller has the obligation to provide the Packet for the Home Buyer, but the Buyer has the right – at the Buyer’s expense – to request an update to the HOA Packet.

Virginia Jurisdictional Addendum states very clearly: “The Purchaser, at the Purchaser’s expense, shall have the right to request that the association provide an update of the Association Disclosure Packet previously furnished, along with the assurance that there have been no material change, or if there have been material change, a statement specifying such changes”.

Virginia POA Act is the STATE LAW in Virginia.   It means that a Seller of a property CANNOT legally request of a Buyer to forgo the HOA Documents or the Condominium Documents.  This includes the foreclosed properties – banks are NOT above the law.  The Buyer has the right to demand the HOA documents BEFORE making the decision.

What if a POA Packet is delivered with  incomplete, misleading information as to the material facts?

It appears to be the case in Potomac Crossing, Leesburg, VA where Home Buyers received HOA documents that included a MAP of the community with the elementary school near by marked on the map but the Mormon church was NOT marked.  Many Home Buyers were told that the lot was common area and nothing ever was going to be built on it.   The HOA docs should have had the information current as of  a date-specified on the Association Disclosure Packet but did NOT.

Again,  Virginia Property Owners’ Association Act IS THE STATE LAW – whenever there is a proof that the law was violated, an attorney should be contacted for legal advise.



NOTE: Advertisement Ads which appear in most posts on this Blog are run by WordPress and do NOT necessarily represent the views of Vivianne Rutkowski or Keller Williams Realty. Visitors to this blog are NOT obligated to click the ads to visit this blog.

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